Catch As CATCH CAN
The title is a phrase I have heard batted around more than once. Often in the company of older people who were more learned and literate than I could ever hope to be. As an adjective, it means using any available means or method. Well as a gear head, that certainly sounds like hot rodding to me! Only this time around this little bit of shade tree engineering actually involves a Catch Can. Some of you may have heard the term Catch Can tossed around before and wondered why do we need a can and what the hell does it catch?! To put it simply, a Catch Can separates oil from the crankcase gases flowing into your intake manifold and traps it until you dump it out.
To get into the details, we will first need to make a quick stop at Engines 101 and understand a bit about PCV. It stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation and this system's main purpose is to vent out the pressures that build up inside the engine as part of the normal combustion process. This pressure can be so great that if it is not properly vented, gaskets and seals can get over-pressurized and blow out. The gas pressures are made up of unburned fumes, oil vapors, blow-by, and other unpleasant leftovers. They are re-routed back through the intake manifold and into the cylinders again for another chance to be combusted. The other function of the PCV is to supply the crankcase with fresh air.
On a stock Gen 3 Viper, a hose from the air cleaner box is connected to the passenger side valve cover. This hose supplies fresh, clean air to the crankcase. It is in front of the throttle body so that the air supply is uninterrupted whether the throttle blades are open or closed. On the driver side valve cover, a hose is connected to the intake manifold from underneath. This location is also behind the throttle body. Vacuum from the intake manifold helps to pull in the vapors from the crankcase. This is what helps to relieve the pressure build up and any unburned gases are cycled back through the intake to be combusted again. On a stock Gen 4 Viper, the hose arrangement is opposite, but still does the same thing. The air box hose connects to the driver side valve cover to supply fresh air to the crankcase. While the hose on the passenger side valve cover is connected to the intake manifold.
Now that all sounds fine expect for one very critical flaw...the intake manifold hose that uses vacuum to pull in gases and relieve the pressures in the crankcase is also sucking in oil vapors. Once these oil vapors get inside the intake manifold they pretty much make a mess as they start coating the insides with a film of oil. This contaminates the air going into the combustion chamber (less fresh oxygen air molecules means less power) and over time this contamination also lowers the octane rating of your fuel. Once your fuel octane starts dropping the engine will start to knock and ping. When the computer sees this it will pull back on timing which will of course cost you even more power.
This is where the Catch Can comes into play. It is installed in between the hose going into the intake manifold and the connection to the valve cover (passenger side on Gen 4s and driver side on the Gen 3). The Catch Can serves as a oil separator by having the gases and oil vapors flow through it and then trapping the gunk so that only the air and fumes continue on into the intake manifold.
There are a number of Catch Can options on the market and at varying price points. The designs range from a simple empty cylinder with an "in" hose fitting and an "out" hose fitting. Others add a bit of steel wool inside as a barrier to help separate the oil from the gases. Some have breathers while others have special baffles and chambers inside. After much research, the one that seemed to have the best features and still be reasonably priced was the McKinney Raceworks Catch Can (web link: http://tinyurl.com/viper-catch-can ). $133 is a decent price for this design.
Balancing the great features with ease of install and simple regular maintenance while hitting the right price point is always a challenge, but the McKinney Raceworks Catch Can seems to have done it. It is CNC milled from a solid 2.25" rod of 6061 Aluminum so it feels hefty and fitting under the hood of a Viper. At 7 inches long and 2.25" diameter it is easy enough to find space for it to fit in the engine bay. As a totally sealed design, it really allows the vacuum from the intake manifold to suck the air out of the crankcase. They make several versions with the main differences being the size and arrangement of the fittings. The 1/2 inch 90 degree fittings are the ones that will work best due to the Viper's low hood clearance.
They always say its what's on the inside that counts and that is certainly what won me over on this one. The "dirty" crankcase air enters in through one port and travels down a ½ inch tube inside the Catch Can. As the vapors exit the tube they encounter a small gap between the exit tube and the funneled surface of the Catch Can's mid-section. A lot of the oil particles will impact on the funnel surface of the mid-section and then drain down into the bottom trap chamber. The radius turn into the next exit chamber is quite sharp so while the air can flow into it, the oil vapors will lose velocity making the turn and entering the larger space. This will cause any leftover oil, that did not impact on the funnel surface, to drop out of suspension of the air stream. They would then condense on the mid-section and drain down. Now the fumes and vapors that made it into the exit chamber must pass through some packed steel wool which will act as a kind of filter media, further separating out any remaining oil vapors or gunk. This all ends up draining back down into the bottom section. And finally, a foam filter is the last barrier before the air is allowed to be re-introduced into the intake manifold.
The bottom section of the Catch Can is where all the oil that condenses on the funnel surface of the mid-section drains into. The drain hole is a small port in the middle of the mid-section. This also helps to act as a baffle to further prevent oil trapped in the bottom section from traveling back up into the upper chambers under hard cornering or braking. And for ease of maintenance, the bottom section comes off with a twist and then you can just properly dispose of all the collected oil and particles. Looking inside the "cup" one can't help, but think how all that oil and gunk would have ended up in the intake manifold.
Here is a basic parts and cost list for install into my 2006 Viper. You may need to adjust a bit depending on your model year. Total install time should be a little over an hour.
1 Catch Can - $133
3 feet of 1/2 inch hose - $4.47
1 foot of 5/8 inch hose - $1.59
1 T-Bolt steel hose clamp 2.06"–2.37", 3/4" width - $3.30
1 Worm drive hose clamp 2.25" - $1.50
2 Brass barb hose fitting – female 1/2 inch - $7.94
2 Brass barb hose fitting – male 5/8 inch - $5.64
Total for main parts came to about $157.44. You will also want to have some smaller hose clamps or zip ties available for tightening any hose ends, but any self-respecting petrol head should already have that in their garage right? Okay...I won't look while you run to the parts store and stock up.
You could save a few bucks by using plastic barb hose fittings that already come in a 5/8" to 1/2" adaptor. I was short on time and my OCD demanded that it be done before the next Viper Cruise, which incidentally was the next morning so overpriced brass fittings for me. The connector coming off the intake manifold and the rubber connector off the driver side valve cover on my Gen 3 was 5/8". The Catch Can fittings were 1/2" so this is were the fittings come in to size down the hose. The 1 foot of 5/8" hose goes directly on to the plastic connector coming off the intake. Then the 5/8" to 1/2" adaptor goes on allowing you to run 1/2" hose all the way to the "OUT" port of the Catch Can. For the valve cover, you plug the 5/8" to 1/2" adaptor right into the rubber elbow. Then you run 1/2" hose all that way back to the "IN" port of the Catch Can.
The T-bolt clamp is what you will use to clamp around the Catch Can. I like the Murray clamps. Sure you could use a worm drive clamp with the slots, but the T-bolt clamp looks a lot cleaner. The worm drive hose clamp is what you will use to hold the T-bolt clamp and thus the Catch Can against the engine bay brace bar. Be sure to get a good quality clamp of thick gauge. I used the clamps made by Ideal. Some of the cheaper brands will bend when you try wrenching down on them. And for this you will be wrenching down good to get a tight grip. Once the clamp is tight and there is little to no movement from the Catch Can, you may notice that the worm drive clamp is not flush against the brace bar. Just get a block of wood and then hammer down on the clamp until it goes flush.
Take a look at the pictures for further details.
It doesn't matter if the car is stock, mildly modified, heavily modified, or supercharged. All Vipers can benefit from a good Catch Can. One note for supercharged Vipers...you will need a one-way check valve on the line going into the intake manifold so as to not push air back into the Catch Can under boost. In short, sucking oil into the intake manifold is never a good thing. It contaminates the air and lowers your fuel's octane rating. The inevitable knocking and pinging will cause your timing to be pulled by the computer and the end result will be a loss of power. So there I just saved you some horsepower! Paypal donations and introductions to single, loose women will be greatly appreciated.
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/IMG_2625.jpg)
12 oz ice tea can for size reference. I drank it later and recycled the can too! After which to balance things out I drove my obnoxiously loud, heavily modified Viper in a very non-eco friendly manner.
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/IMG_2627.jpg)
The bottom section twists off to easily inspect the contents and then dispose of any oil collected. To the left you can seen the bottom side of the mid-section. Notice the drain hole in the center. This design prevents the oil from splashing up during hard cornering or braking.
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/IMG_2628.jpg)
All 3 main sections apart. The mid-section is held in by two screws. The o-rings help to form a nice air-tight seal. The funnel surface of the mid-section directs oil to all drain down the center. You can also see inside of the top section. Note the 1/2" tube that brings in the "dirty" air and the steel wool that the air must pass through before exiting the "clean" port.
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/IMG_2631.jpg)
Steel wool removed and now you can see the final foam filter.
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/IMG_2632.jpg)
Foam filter removed and you can see the "clean" exit port and a better shot of the inlet tube.
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/IMG_2635.jpg)
I couldn't resist and had to "church" it up a bit before the install. Some polishing with Mother's Metal Polish and a Viper logo does wonders! ;)
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/IMG_2644.jpg)
Installed!
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/IMG_2645.jpg)
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/IMG_2647.jpg)
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/IMG_2649.jpg)
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/IMG_2650.jpg)
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/IMG_2651.jpg)
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/oil_01.jpg)
The Catch Can was installed the night before our Dukes Poker Run and was clean as a whistle. Right after I got home I twisted off the cap and this is what I found. That's a lot of oil and gunk!
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/oil_02.jpg)
Now granted I did drive her pretty hard that day and I do have a big cam, heads, 11:1 compression etc. so you may not be pulling as much oil as I do under load, but daaaamn thats a lot of oil after just one day. I'll have to check this thing at least 1 to 2 times a month. For track days I will need to check her each day.
Happy Motoring!
Great write up Anhtuan! Now when can I bring the Blue Meanie by for the install <11
Anhtuan,
Great job with the write up and pics.
Love that last series of pics with the oil in the catch can.
I remember working on a catch can for my GTS with Dave C. He was a bit skeptical at first of just how much oil these engines put into the intake manifold. After I ran my GTS for a while with the catch can on, I showed him the contents of the can one day and he was amazed. He then installed a catch can on his car and found the same results that you did.
Thereafter, he religiously "dumped" his catch can every month.
The good news is, you kept that crap out of your engine.
The bad news for most of us is, you'll be making even more power!
Dan
Anhtuan,
Well done!! Thanks so much for taking all the time on the description!!
Mike
Great write up Anhtuan !
Apparantly it was so good that everyone ran out and ordered the catch can and I hear they are Out of Stock .
Thanks guys! It always takes me longer than I think to write this stuff up, but seeing how much you guys enjoy the info and the read makes it worth it.
And thanks to YOU Dan for helping me confirm the routing path and other catch canny info ;) ! Next dyno day here I come!
If we get a few people interested we could probably do some kind of an install party.
They're out of stock already? Wow...I hope they make more soon and fast! The results of the last two pics really speak for themselves.
Very nice Anhtuan. I think I better get one now.
Thanks for the write up.
Ben
Anhtuan,
This is a great write up and the pictures are a great help. I ordered the can today from McKinney and i will give you a shout when it comes in. Thaks again.
Mike
%y %o %u %d %a %m %a %n %!
Hey Mike,
You will need a one way check valve with this set up (due to your supercharger) that will stand up to at least 10lbs of pressure. Mesa hose or Torino Racing Products may be able to help locally. You could also check with Summit Racing or Jegs online.
Dan
Thanks for the heads up Dan, I didn't even give it a thought. Mike
Dan,
I noticed there are several types of check valves. Where exactly is it installed and can you give me some idea as to what type and size I should be looking for?
Mike
Hey Mike,
You would install it in the line the comes out from under the intake manifold, which is pressurized under boost but should provide vacuum when not under boost. I'm not sure of the size. You'd have to check Anhtuan's write up. Likely it will be -8 (1/2 inch) or -10 (5/8 inch).
Dan
Mike,
You currently have a billet check valve installed in your system, another is not needed.
Dan
Thanks Dan and Dan.
Thanks Dan,
Good to know you're looking out for us.
When I first had my black car supercharged, the installer (who will remain nameless) didn't install a check valve!
Dan
Hey Dan E., Is your catch can set up much different than Anhtuan's?
I know you've been using them on both your track cars.
Thanks,
Ben
Hey Ben,
Yes, different, but not necessarily better. I removed the vacuum from my catch can. I want all the vacuum I can get pulling air into my engine and assisting with the power brakes. Also, I run bigger inside diameter hoses as it's a track car. I think Anhtuan's set up is better for the street.
On the plus side, I don't get much "gunk" or oil in my catch can; I do get a little bit of water vapor. For example, I don't have as much oil / gunk / water vapor in my catch can after 25 track days and 4,000 street miles as Anhtuan had in his catch can after one afternoon on the street. Bottom line is that when you remove the vacuum, you won't have to empty the catch can very often.
On the negative side, if you run a catch can the way that I have set mine up, you remove the vacuum from the crankcase. Some folks don't like to do this and think vacuum helps rings seal and make more power......and I agree if the engine is new, i.e. less than a couple thousand miles. After that, I think the rings are sealed just fine and if they aren't, no amount of vacuum is going to help.....and making 1 or 2 more hp probably won't make me any faster.
I ran this same type of set up on my GTS for 3 years (mostly track) and it worked very well.
Dan
PS Lance and I need to get with you on the HANS set up soon.
Unfortunately Anhtuan's catch-can source no longer has any inventory and couldn't tell me when he would get more.
I asked Dan Cragen to work up a catch-can arrangement both for Gen III's and Gen IV's. I'll let you know when he is ready.
Thanks Dan.
Which way do you think would be better for my car? With vacuum or passive? It's not a daily driver but I do like driving it on the street and tracking it about 6-8 times per year.
Thanks Bruce, I'm interested to see what DC designs.
Hey Dan,
A bit off topic but for the Hans Device....
It turns out that there are a whole bunch of "factory trained" dealers in the O.C.
http://hansdevice.com/s.nl/sc.13/category.89/.f (http://hansdevice.com/s.nl/sc.13/category.89/.f)
Bruce got his from:
Taylor Motorsports (down the street from Corvette Mike's)
1255 N. Tustin Ave.
Anaheim, CA 92807
(714) 630-7850
20 LP Hans Device with quick disconnect - $1,100 (installed)
Only downside...no Philly Cheesesteaks >o
Lance,
Good find.
$1100.00 seems kinda' pricey though .....
Bruce,
I've sent Dan Cragin my catch can details and am sure that he can duplicate it.
Ben,
The catch can I installed works very well and is low maintenance.....and I still drive my car on the street at times too, but I disconnect it, of course, when on the street, unless I am in Mexico.
Dan
From what I've seen so far on the Hans....pricing has been pretty much fixed no matter where you go. We'll save on sales tax buying in the OC >g
Maybe I should make one out of Koa >w
McKinney Raceworks no longer makes the catch can!
I spoke with him on the phone and it looks like the profit margin on the catch cans were pretty thin compared to the amount of effort that went into making them. So for now the catch can is discontinued. What a bummer because it was a really nice piece.
So I started looking at alternatives and this second option kept coming back to the top of my list. Yes I know it was made by a bunch of Corvette dudes, but it has a lot of nice features and the design seems to work. It is more expensive than the McKinney Catch Can, but it IS still being made. Check it out here: http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/Catch_Can.html
Kobi just ordered one for his Gen 4 ACR and I will be helping him install it at Lance's shop on the 23rd. I will also take some pics and do a follow-up post on this can.
Mike (DEDLY4U) and Cheryl came by my house today and not only did they bring doggie treats for my little guy they also brought over the Elite Engineering Catch Can! I was able to check it out in person and see what is needed to install it.
This is a very nicely made part and will work great on the Viper. Here are some pics:
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/elite/IMG_2761.jpg)
At 2.6" round and 6" long this catch can is a little wider and shorter than the McKinney Raceworks Catch Can. The fittings are 3/8". Oil vapor and fumes from the valve cover enter through the top port. Clean air is drawn into the intake through the lower port.
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/elite/IMG_2762.jpg)
The bottom portion holds all the oil and unscrews for easy dumping. Bottom portion is also O-Ring sealed. The backside of the top has two screw holes for the mounting bracket, but unfortunately this is more of a feature for the Corvettes since their cylinder heads have exposed bolts you can thread the bracket on to. Not so on the Viper. The T-bolt clamp I used for the McKinney can will work here...though you would need a slightly bigger clamp due to the 2.6" diameter of the Elite Engineering catch can.
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/elite/IMG_2763.jpg)
Here is a look at the oil separation chamber housed in the top half of the can. Oil drains into the bottom part of the can through the holes. Air is drawn into the intake through the gap and divots cut along the face.
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/elite/IMG_2764.jpg)
The oil separation chamber unscrews from the top. Inside you find metal coiled shavings. These act as the main separation medium. Oil vapors and fumes enter though the top of the can and then must pass through this filtration medium. All the oil and gunk condenses on to the metal coiled shavings while the air passes through. Eventually all the oil finds its way to the bottom of the filter and then drips to the bottom of the can through the drain holes. You will want to unscrew the separation chamber several times a year and spray some brake cleaner through it to rinse out the gunk from clogging up.
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/elite/IMG_2765.jpg)
Side view of oil separation chamber unscrewed from top of can.
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/elite/IMG_2767.jpg)
Bottom view of oil separation chamber. Note the drain holes. You can see the metal coiled shavings packed in there. Oil drains through the drain holes, but air also passes through those same holes. The oil and any vapors will not be able to make a 180 degree turn to flow into the clean air path above.
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/elite/IMG_2769.jpg)
Another shot of the metal "filter" medium in the oil separation chamber.
These run about $170 and can be bought here: http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/Catch_Can.html they come in several color options.
Thanks for the info S.V. <1
Just ordered one Glenn..............
You guys with Gen IV's may want to check your hose sizes. I used 5/8 inch hoses on my catch can set up and they worked perfectly with the OE size hose ends on the valve covers, i.e. I didn't have to "up or down size" the hoses.
Gen III looks like it's smaller, but I'd check with Anhtuan this week so that you will have the correct size fittings and / or hoses for your installation.
Dan
Quote from: 1HOTV10 on May 17, 2010, 10:46:22 AM
Thanks for the info S.V. <1
Just ordered one Glenn..............
Me too !
Thanks Anhtuan !
The Gen 3s also have 5/8" hoses between the valve cover and the intake. So it looks like both the Gen 3 and 4 Vipers use 5/8" hoses. My McKinney Can though had 1/2" fittings so I had to size down with an adapter to make it fit. The Elite Can has 3/8" fittings so you will need a 5/8" to 3/8" adapter...two of them...one for the in port and one for the out port.
In order to clamp and hold the can you will need a t-bolt clamp like this one:
1 – T-bolt hose clamp 2.56"-2.87" like this http://www.amazon.com/Murray-T-Bolt-Steel-ClampScrew/dp/B000OGTUWE/ref=sr_1_58?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1273824469&sr=1-58
1 - 2.25" worm gear hose clamp...get one made in the USA with a thicker gauge metal. I like the ones made by Ideal and they can be found at Pep Boys.
2 - 5/8" to 3/8" hose adapters. I ended up screwing together two brass hose barb fittings from Home Depot. 3/8" barb on one side and 5/8" barb on the other side. If you can find a plastic hose adapter then that would look nicer. Mike said he was able to find a 5/8" to 1/2" plastic adapter at Pep Boys and was able to make the 3/8" hose that came with the Elite Can stretch over it.
For Gen 3 owners you will also need about 2 ft of 5/8" hose. Gen 4 owners should only need about 1.5 ft of 5/8" hose.
If the link to the T-Bolt Clamp is sold out try this other link:
T-Bolt Clamp: http://www.amazon.com/Murray-Stainless-Steel-T-Bolt-Clamp/dp/B000OGZUVE/ref=sr_1_64?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1274122947&sr=1-64
Also sold in packs of 5: http://www.amazon.com/Murray-T-Bolt-Steel-Clamp-Screw/dp/B000OGTUYC/ref=sr_1_117?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1274123105&sr=1-117
Anhtuan,
Thanks for jumping in.
Dan
Quick thought. What about drilling and tapping out the input and exit and install a threaded 5/8" barb fitting?
>m What do ya think Lance?
Drilling and tapping the can for a 5/8" barb fitting would work if you have the tools, patient, and skill to pull it off.
Quote from: 1HOTV10 on May 17, 2010, 07:08:54 PM
Quick thought. What about drilling and tapping out the input and exit and install a threaded 5/8" barb fitting?
>m What do ya think Lance?
That's what I'm planning to do.
My catch can has been installed for almost a week now, but I have been so busy I haven't even started the car up.
I finally got the chance to get the car out for a quick ride around the block, came home and with the engine still running, opened up the hood. The 5/8 rubber hose line between the catch can and the PCV valve was completely collapsed. Luckily I still had left overs of some stiffer 5/8 hose and switched it out. No more collapsed line.
The flexible 5/8 hose is too soft. I bought a hose that had the 90 degree turn pre-formed in it and it is much stiffer.
I used heater hose which is quite thick and reinforced. So far no problems on the Gen 3. But good thing bringing this to attention as everybody should double check their installs.
Great photos and write-up!
I would like to add a catch-can to my 2008 coupe. I too saw the "sold out" designation on the website.
Thanks Anhtuan! After a lot of work and frustration plus trips to the speed shop for fittings I'm finished!
And also thanks to Lance for the use of your milling machine to drill and tap out the can to 1/2" pipe size <1
Cool! <1 Looking good Glenn! >v
OK, so now that a bunch of you guys have catch cans, don't forget to check them regularly as they will accumulate oil.
ONE of our guys, who will remain nameless, didn't check his. It filled up and blew oil all over his engine compartment!
See you at the track,
Dan
>m
Not sure who that was.....
The upside to the "closed" catch can system that the Gen 3/4 cars are getting is that they will fill up and THEN start getting into the intake manifold.
The "breather" catch can system is definitely prone to filling up and ending up all over the motor as well as everything else. Quite the mess to have to clean up........so I hear.... <F
Hey Lance,
Wasn't going to tell on you ..... was actually referring to "Rev". He "made his big mess" at the track last year. When I asked him if he'd checked it lately, he said, Uhhhhhhhh, no!
FYI, on the Gen IV breather system I put installed on my 09 ACR - I haven't had to empty it since I installed it - after about a dozen driving events.
It works much better than the older breather systems installed on the Gen II cars.
Dan
Just an update on this. I wanted to show everyone why we need catch cans on Vipers if you start to drive hard and do track events. This is two days at Laguna Seca and the can is more than half full.
(http://hirkophoto.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v20/p378328309-4.jpg)
(http://hirkophoto.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v46/p455958554-4.jpg)
Been thinking about getting a oil catch can here and there and after reading this thread I think it's now a must do!
I plan to get one for both my GTS which has a paxton on it and the 05' viper which is mostly stock.
I'm looking for some input from you more experienced guys.
I'm also going to make a thread on the vca forum.
What I'm looking for is a nice clean legit set up. Don't want some cheapy half ass set up on my car.
Thanks!
A catch can is a must for a supercharged car and a car that spends any time on the track.
All Generation Vipers suck oil into the intake track.
Good decision Derek.
Dan <2
=16
Quote from: Derek on August 25, 2012, 09:06:15 AM
Been thinking about getting a oil catch can here and there and after reading this thread I think it's now a must do!
I plan to get one for both my GTS which has a paxton on it and the 05' viper which is mostly stock.
I'm looking for some input from you more experienced guys.
I'm also going to make a thread on the vca forum.
What I'm looking for is a nice clean legit set up. Don't want some cheapy half ass set up on my car.
Thanks!
Dereck,
Come out to the condor run on the 9th and we can discuss a catch can set up for you. I did one on my GTS when I had it and just did one on my srt10 recently. Super villain knows what he is talking about and would also be happy to help you out. Dan, Lance myself and others have done this and Cahill you through the process.
Quote from: Super Villain on May 17, 2010, 01:22:10 AM
Mike (DEDLY4U) and Cheryl came by my house today and not only did they bring doggie treats for my little guy they also brought over the Elite Engineering Catch Can! I was able to check it out in person and see what is needed to install it.
This is a very nicely made part and will work great on the Viper. Here are some pics:
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/elite/IMG_2761.jpg)
At 2.6" round and 6" long this catch can is a little wider and shorter than the McKinney Raceworks Catch Can. The fittings are 3/8". Oil vapor and fumes from the valve cover enter through the top port. Clean air is drawn into the intake through the lower port.
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/elite/IMG_2762.jpg)
The bottom portion holds all the oil and unscrews for easy dumping. Bottom portion is also O-Ring sealed. The backside of the top has two screw holes for the mounting bracket, but unfortunately this is more of a feature for the Corvettes since their cylinder heads have exposed bolts you can thread the bracket on to. Not so on the Viper. The T-bolt clamp I used for the McKinney can will work here...though you would need a slightly bigger clamp due to the 2.6" diameter of the Elite Engineering catch can.
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/elite/IMG_2763.jpg)
Here is a look at the oil separation chamber housed in the top half of the can. Oil drains into the bottom part of the can through the holes. Air is drawn into the intake through the gap and divots cut along the face.
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/elite/IMG_2764.jpg)
The oil separation chamber unscrews from the top. Inside you find metal coiled shavings. These act as the main separation medium. Oil vapors and fumes enter though the top of the can and then must pass through this filtration medium. All the oil and gunk condenses on to the metal coiled shavings while the air passes through. Eventually all the oil finds its way to the bottom of the filter and then drips to the bottom of the can through the drain holes. You will want to unscrew the separation chamber several times a year and spray some brake cleaner through it to rinse out the gunk from clogging up.
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/elite/IMG_2765.jpg)
Side view of oil separation chamber unscrewed from top of can.
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/elite/IMG_2767.jpg)
Bottom view of oil separation chamber. Note the drain holes. You can see the metal coiled shavings packed in there. Oil drains through the drain holes, but air also passes through those same holes. The oil and any vapors will not be able to make a 180 degree turn to flow into the clean air path above.
(http://www.pod9.com/ant/viper/catch_can/elite/IMG_2769.jpg)
Another shot of the metal "filter" medium in the oil separation chamber.
These run about $170 and can be bought here: http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/Catch_Can.html they come in several color options.
I really like this catch can. I went to the site i was directed to to order one up and it looks as if they don't have a specific model for the dodge viper... i see some for the dodge challenger, srt 8, and whatnot but no viper. im assuming that from what i am seeing it looks like the model is only for the bracket of how it will mount. im assuming if i order one up ill have to modify and make my own bracket.... just wanted to make sure that i am correct on this before i make the purchase. i am only going to order 1 for now and see how i like it but plan to order another for the 2nd viper.
also if anyone has pics of this specific oil catch can installed on their viper please post pics id really appreciate it.
thanks!
Hey Derek,
When you click on the link it takes you to the catch can. http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/Catch_Can.html (http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/Catch_Can.html)
It is actually designed for a Corvette. >1
Quote from: PCH VIPER on September 13, 2012, 08:49:53 PM
Hey Derek,
When you click on the link it takes you to the catch can. http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/Catch_Can.html (http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/Catch_Can.html)
It is actually designed for a Corvette. >1
yea thats why i was asking if it would work for my viper if i made/modified the mounting bracket. im pretty sure the oil catch can is universal but wanted to make sure...