Wow I can't believe its been this long since anyone has posted anything in here...well here goes...
As part of the process to get my 06 Coupe ready for road racing I got a Simpson 6-point harness. Team Techs are fine too, but I already had a set of Simpson belts from my C5 Vette so I only had to buy 1 more set to have a matching pair. One for the driver and one for the passenger.
Why a set for both sides you may ask? Well it is generally expected that the driver (that's you) should afford the passenger the same level of restraints as the driver has. This is especially true if you have an instructor ride with you. Try explaining to the instructor why they are stuck with a 3 point lap belt while you are snugly strapped down in your 6-point. "Um, it'll be easier for you to lean forward and write on your clip board how great of a driver I am?" ... "um...no...try again sparky."
Most of you should know that our rides come from the factory with mounting points already in place for a harness set up...unlike my Corvette...these Dodge boys thought ahead and know their customers!
There are 4 main points. Two are behind the plastic cover behind the driver and passenger seats. The plastic cover is held in by two metal clips (one on each side). Use a plastic pry tool or wrap a wide flat head screwdriver in masking or painters tape and this will help to pry off the cover and prevent damage. Also be sure to only pry off along the left or right edge of the plastic panel as that is where the clips are...not along the top or bottom as this tends to flex the cover too much and not much to pry against.
Once the plastic cover is off you can feel your hand along the metal ledge. You should feel two rubbery square tapes. These are covering the two mounting points. If you push down on the center of them you should feel the depression of where the hole is. Just cut the tape back with an exacto or razor blade.
Now my Simpson belts came with quick removal latches and eyebolts. This will allow you to quickly install you belts for track and then quickly remove for the other 98% of the time you are driving. You just screw the eyebolts into the two mounting holes and now any time you remove the plastic cover you have access to the mounting points for your shoulder harnesses.
Now the final two mounting points are also behind the seat, but much lower down, near the floor. Many have suggested that it is much easier to handle this part if you remove the seats. True enough, but taking out and re-installing the seats can be a real pain in the rear. Unbolting it is easy...trying to actually take the seat out or put it back in... that's the real joy. I am convinced that the door opening is smaller than the seat! If you can imagine the whole ship in the bottle thing...well, you get the idea.
I did remove the seat on one side and even pulled up the carpet and all manner of silliness. By the time I got to the other side I had found a better way! The time this saves you can be put to better use...spend more time with your significant other, save your marriage, read to the kids, rescue a puppy, count your penny collection...
Here is the real tip...
Flip the handle to ratchet the upper part of the seat fully forward. Grab the floor slider bar and then slide the seat as far forward as it will go. Now so long as you're not built like Homer Simpson (and if you were how do you fit in the Viper?!), that should give you enough access.
First, find the seat belt and then follow it all the way down to the mounting point. There you will find a T-50 Torx bolt. Unscrew it and replace it with an eyebolt. Make sure you re-attach the seat belt, in other words, the eyebolt should go through the seat belt hole and then screw into the mounting point. Otherwise, you go from a 3 point seat belt to a 2 point belt and those don't tend to work...at all.
Next, look towards the transmission tunnel. Find the rear bolt that holds down the seat...the one closest to the transmission tunnel. Now from that bolt follow straight up along the transmission tunnel about 4.5 to 5 inches. Now right in that area if you push around with your fingers you will feel the head of a bolt through the carpet. Cut a hole right there (I just cut an X with an exacto). You may have to cut away some insulation or rubber sealant, but there it is... the last mounting point. It is a 5/8 inch bolt. Put that socket set to use and do your best Tim Allen grunt. Once that bolt is out you can go ahead and screw in the eyebolt.
And that's it... all 4 mounting points are ready to be...um...mounted...or something...
With this tip it should only take about 10-15 mins per side.
The shoulder harness attaches at the top behind the plastic cover and the lap belt and anti-sub belt clip in near the floor. And for those that don't know, the anti-sub belt stands for anti-submarine belt...and it does just that...it prevents you from sliding under. You ever see those belt set ups where the belt comes up at the front of the seat? Those are WRONG! If you are not sitting ON the anti-sub belt when you go to clip it in it is not going to do anything for you. ALL belts should be coming from behind you. The only time you are not sitting ON the anti-sub belt would be in a racing seat where the slot for the anti-sub belt is cut right into the middle of the seat.
And for the love of all things sweet and fuzzy, don't go driving around normal streets with your 6-point harness thinking you're cool. You look like a DORK. Those belts are NOT DOT approved and you can be ticketed for it. And if you do any kind of driving on the streets that requires you to be bolted in a 6-point then you're an IDIOT and I don't want to be any where near you on the roads.
Hope this helps!
Be safe, keep it on the track, and happy Viper-ring
As part of the process to get my 06 Coupe ready for road racing I got a Simpson 6-point harness. Team Techs are fine too, but I already had a set of Simpson belts from my C5 Vette so I only had to buy 1 more set to have a matching pair. One for the driver and one for the passenger.
Why a set for both sides you may ask? Well it is generally expected that the driver (that's you) should afford the passenger the same level of restraints as the driver has. This is especially true if you have an instructor ride with you. Try explaining to the instructor why they are stuck with a 3 point lap belt while you are snugly strapped down in your 6-point. "Um, it'll be easier for you to lean forward and write on your clip board how great of a driver I am?" ... "um...no...try again sparky."
Most of you should know that our rides come from the factory with mounting points already in place for a harness set up...unlike my Corvette...these Dodge boys thought ahead and know their customers!
There are 4 main points. Two are behind the plastic cover behind the driver and passenger seats. The plastic cover is held in by two metal clips (one on each side). Use a plastic pry tool or wrap a wide flat head screwdriver in masking or painters tape and this will help to pry off the cover and prevent damage. Also be sure to only pry off along the left or right edge of the plastic panel as that is where the clips are...not along the top or bottom as this tends to flex the cover too much and not much to pry against.
Once the plastic cover is off you can feel your hand along the metal ledge. You should feel two rubbery square tapes. These are covering the two mounting points. If you push down on the center of them you should feel the depression of where the hole is. Just cut the tape back with an exacto or razor blade.
Now my Simpson belts came with quick removal latches and eyebolts. This will allow you to quickly install you belts for track and then quickly remove for the other 98% of the time you are driving. You just screw the eyebolts into the two mounting holes and now any time you remove the plastic cover you have access to the mounting points for your shoulder harnesses.
Now the final two mounting points are also behind the seat, but much lower down, near the floor. Many have suggested that it is much easier to handle this part if you remove the seats. True enough, but taking out and re-installing the seats can be a real pain in the rear. Unbolting it is easy...trying to actually take the seat out or put it back in... that's the real joy. I am convinced that the door opening is smaller than the seat! If you can imagine the whole ship in the bottle thing...well, you get the idea.
I did remove the seat on one side and even pulled up the carpet and all manner of silliness. By the time I got to the other side I had found a better way! The time this saves you can be put to better use...spend more time with your significant other, save your marriage, read to the kids, rescue a puppy, count your penny collection...
Here is the real tip...
Flip the handle to ratchet the upper part of the seat fully forward. Grab the floor slider bar and then slide the seat as far forward as it will go. Now so long as you're not built like Homer Simpson (and if you were how do you fit in the Viper?!), that should give you enough access.
First, find the seat belt and then follow it all the way down to the mounting point. There you will find a T-50 Torx bolt. Unscrew it and replace it with an eyebolt. Make sure you re-attach the seat belt, in other words, the eyebolt should go through the seat belt hole and then screw into the mounting point. Otherwise, you go from a 3 point seat belt to a 2 point belt and those don't tend to work...at all.
Next, look towards the transmission tunnel. Find the rear bolt that holds down the seat...the one closest to the transmission tunnel. Now from that bolt follow straight up along the transmission tunnel about 4.5 to 5 inches. Now right in that area if you push around with your fingers you will feel the head of a bolt through the carpet. Cut a hole right there (I just cut an X with an exacto). You may have to cut away some insulation or rubber sealant, but there it is... the last mounting point. It is a 5/8 inch bolt. Put that socket set to use and do your best Tim Allen grunt. Once that bolt is out you can go ahead and screw in the eyebolt.
And that's it... all 4 mounting points are ready to be...um...mounted...or something...
With this tip it should only take about 10-15 mins per side.
The shoulder harness attaches at the top behind the plastic cover and the lap belt and anti-sub belt clip in near the floor. And for those that don't know, the anti-sub belt stands for anti-submarine belt...and it does just that...it prevents you from sliding under. You ever see those belt set ups where the belt comes up at the front of the seat? Those are WRONG! If you are not sitting ON the anti-sub belt when you go to clip it in it is not going to do anything for you. ALL belts should be coming from behind you. The only time you are not sitting ON the anti-sub belt would be in a racing seat where the slot for the anti-sub belt is cut right into the middle of the seat.
And for the love of all things sweet and fuzzy, don't go driving around normal streets with your 6-point harness thinking you're cool. You look like a DORK. Those belts are NOT DOT approved and you can be ticketed for it. And if you do any kind of driving on the streets that requires you to be bolted in a 6-point then you're an IDIOT and I don't want to be any where near you on the roads.
Hope this helps!
Be safe, keep it on the track, and happy Viper-ring
Sigh it never ends.