Messages

Count Jeff, Herb, and Will in.

This filled up so fast.  I am on the waiting list hoping to join.
Jeff

I am in too.

Sounds like a great event, I will not be in town this weekend.  See you all at the next one.
Have a great time.
Jeff

Thank you Mike Bell and Motor Village LA for hosting such a great event.  Everything was top notch, great food and drinks, The SRT room was really nice.  The GT3R was a nice surprise, got some great photos with it.  I love the new carbon color on the viper.  Thanks to everyone that organized and Thank you Lance for leading such a great club for the last 3 years.
Jeff

Please add Jeff and guest.   Thank you

Would love to make it, but I have a class until 9am in Santa Monica.  Not sure I could make it to Corona by 10:15.

Thanks Dan.  The hardest part of this was getting the viper high enough in the air to get under it.  The above tips helped.  It seems to be shifting better, but still not exactly as it should be. 
I live in the San Fernando Valley, I wouldn't mind having someone taking a look at it.  I will give you a call later today.
Thanks again.
Jeff

Thanks Lance.  I am going to give it a try.  I will keep you posted.

Will the below procedure work?  Thanks for the info.  I pulled this from the VCA forum:
http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/663587-DIY-Clutch-Bleeding-for-Gen.3-amp-Gen.4-(T-56-and-T-6060-transmissions)?highlight=bleeding+clutch



CLUTCH LINE BLEEDING PROCEDURE FOR 2004-2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10
(Also applies to Gen. 3 and Gen. 4 Viper coupe and convertible).


This DIY article will cover how to properly and correctly bleed the hydraulic clutch line in your Viper-powered vehicle, more specifically the Ram SRT-10.


This is a VERY EASY procedure, and can save you a ton of cash.
I'm not sure what the average dealer cost is to bleed a clutch line, but you can do it yourself for less than $20.


Here's a quick overview of the slave cylinder and where the bleed screw is at:

(image courtesy of ALLDATA)


Now that we have a general idea of where we're looking and what to look for, let's get our stuff together.
Difficulty Level: 2


Tools required:



- 11mm combination wrench
- shop paper towel
- shop rag
- catch cup


Materials required:
- 1 pt. of DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid.
There are dozens of awesome brake fluid brands out there. Even the most exotic/hardcore stuff can be had for under $20.
Just make sure it's DOT3 or DOT4!
If you're switching from one to the other, you need to flush your entire line (drain and refill).


Under the hood we go....
Look for a yellow cap. One will be for your brake master cylinder, the other will be for your clutch master cylinder.
We want the clutch one. On the trucks, it's right next to the brake MC.



Open the cap and have a look inside:

There you see the rubber diaphragm and a little fluid inside of it.


We need to remove the diaphragm.
It lifts straight out of the MC reservoir.
Empty any fluid inside of it, and check that it's in good shape:

Clean it too, since you have it out.


Make sure that the fluid is at the proper level.
If you're reading this on any other site than SRTConnection.com, that means someone stole it. They officially suck and you should ban them for committing a felony.
On the Viper MC, there's a little embossed "line" that runs around the outside of the MC. That's your FULL mark.
Don't go past the FULL mark because the diaphragm will displace enough fluid to bring it to the brim.


Put the cap back on the MC.


I stuff a shop paper towel between the MC and the brake lines in case of any spillage:

Remember that brake fluid is VERY harmful to paint and clear coats.
The paper towel is just insurance.


Now we can go under the vehicle.


Locate the bleed screw on the transmission.
It will be just above the input for the hydraulic line:

It's that little brass hex head sticking out.


Here's where the fun starts. LOL

Just like brake bleeding, you'll need a 2nd person to help ya out here.
1. They will push the clutch to the floor and hold it there.
2. You loosen the bleed screw and let any air/fluid out, then tighten it back up quickly.
3. They release the pedal completely.
4. Repeat #1 through #3 until the clutch stiffens up.
Remember to check the fluid level in the reservoir after every couple of "rounds" and keep it at the FULL line.


As the air is bled out of the line, fluid should leak out of the center of the bleed screw.
That's what the catch cup is for:



Check the fluid level back at the MC and make sure it's at the FULL level.
Put the rubber diaphragm back in the MC reservoir, and screw the yellow cap on tight.


The shop rag is to wipe up any brake fluid that you missed.


Double-check for any spills or leaks anywhere in the line or at the connections.


BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE, test the clutch a few times. Make sure all the "mush" is gone and you have consistent pressure throughout the travel of the pedal.


That's it.

Recently my 2006 srt10 coupe is getting hard to shift as I drive it around for 10 miles or more.  When I first get in it and drive it is fine, but after taking it on a longer trip, it gets very difficult to get into gears and impossible to get into reverse.  Any ideas what would cause this?
Thanks
Jeff

I will be there too.

I will bring one shotgun, I also plan to bring an AR and my new Smith and Wesson 500 to break in.
This is the last Sunday of the month, usually a big turn out for Super Car Sunday.
See you all on Sunday.

I am in with a guest.